Quality, commitment and storytelling: keys to seducing Swiss palates
Switzerland, with fewer than nine million inhabitants and one of the most prosperous economies on the planet, is an ideal destination for Spanish agri-food products.
“It is, for example, the country in the world where Spanish wines fetch the highest prices; more than double what they reach in the domestic market” explained María Naranjo, Director of the Food Industry at ICEX. The organization promoted Spain Fusion Zurich in conjunction with Alimentos de España and Vocento Gastronomía.
At the majestic Park Hyatt hotel, seventeen companies presented their products: wineries, olive oil producers, Iberian ham, fresh fruit, saffron, truffles, seaweed, preserved vegetables, and the Culinary Roots of Castilla-La Mancha. They had the support of seven Michelin-starred chefs, two Masters of Wine, and Spanish and international experts.
Switzerland offers as much as it demands. Concerned about health, sustainability, and social responsibility, the Swiss consumer demands exquisite organic products, both in content and presentation. Explaining the product is as important as offering a tasting, and Spain is confident in its ability to do so.
Even the artisanal cheeses, all of them award-winning, were included in the selection. In a cheese-producing country that openly protects its own, this might seem bold. Clara Díez, founder of Formaje and ambassador for Spanish cheeses in Zurich, believes that "the most difficult thing is creating a culture around a product, and Switzerland has a cheese culture that allows the Swiss to appreciate a good cheese." The cheeses were paired with white wines selected by Master of Wine Fernando Mora.
Iberian ham is also very popular in Switzerland. "I've taken it with me all over the world," said chef Ralph Schelling, who returned to the country after working in some of Spain's most prestigious kitchens, such as El Bulli. He was particularly drawn to the seaweed from the Galician company Porto Muiños, especially the sea grape.
Hans Schneeberger, a Swiss journalist who, after retiring, has become one of the country's most influential wine critics, awarded top marks to the five ham and cured meat companies present. He acknowledged having tasted "very interesting things" among the wineries, including organic wines from regions such as Jumilla, Priorat, Aragón, and Extremadura, in addition to Rioja and Ribera del Duero. He cautioned, however, that the new offerings "are entering a mature market where Spain has traditionally been associated with Ribera del Duero, Rioja, and Rueda, wines that the average consumer finds difficult to move beyond." For newcomers, attracting select distributors and the hospitality sector is crucial.
A good story opens many doors. Apadrina un Olivo (Sponsor an Olive Tree), from Oliete (Teruel), revitalizes the local economy by recovering olive trees abandoned during the rural exodus. Gardeniers, from Zaragoza, makes preserved vegetables, soups, and creams with people with intellectual disabilities. Las Truficas del Río Pilas, also from Teruel, produces everything from sauces and cheeses to chocolates using black truffles. Galician chef Lucía Freitas, from A Tafona, sums it up like this: "A story has power if it's true, and if it's true, it has all the importance in the world to explain where food comes from and how it's made."
Spain has knocked on the doors of the Swiss market with all its might.