The Counts with the Innkeeper, by Tommaso Melilli, a literary debut by a young chef
Tommaso Melilli debuts with a book that is halfway between a coming-of-age novel and a chronicle of Italian cuisine, examining tradition, territory, and innovation.
The reviewer confesses that he wasn't expecting much from a book written by a chef, until he opened it and couldn't put it down. The book follows a young, bohemian literary figure from Paris who becomes passionate about cooking and embarks on a journey of self-discovery through Italy and France.
During this journey, Melilli talks and cooks with chefs of the new generation such as Giovanni Passerini, Andrea Gherra, Diego Rossi, Sarah Cicolini, Juri Chiotti, Paolo Lopriore, and Pierre Jancou. From these conversations, he attempts to reconstruct what Italian cuisine was like, how it has transformed, and what he would like it to be.
The book analyzes tradition, territory, and innovation, concepts the author considers elusive. He discovers that the trattorias of yesteryear didn't exist as they are remembered, and that tradition can be a legacy to draw upon, but also a deception of memory and a marketing strategy.
The review compares him to Aldo Buzzi, a master of food writing, and concludes that he lacks Buzzi's sprezzatura, minimalism, and genius. Even so, it finds in the book a touch of Mario Soldati, a hint of Joan Didion, and a great deal of a young chef who has mastered writing and tells stories like almost no other chef has.
It's worth reading to understand where Italian cuisine comes from and where it's going.