Pan de Cuco, where everything looks delicious
In Suesa, a stone's throw from Somo, Pan de Cuco offers comforting flavors in a relaxed atmosphere and at reasonable prices.
Pan de Cuco, in the Cantabrian town of Suesa, is a traditional yet unpretentious restaurant, modern without being contrived, elegant and charming, with reasonable prices: ideal for impressing without breaking the bank. It's a stone's throw from Somo, 25 kilometers from Santander, and less than an hour from Bilbao, and is one of the most established names in Cantabrian bistronomy.
Pan de Cuco takes its name from a wild herb that grows in cornfields. It is the personal project of Alex Ortiz Cayón, in his thirties, who trained alongside emblematic figures of the national scene such as Casa Marcial in Asturias, Ricard Camarena in Valencia, and Cenador de Amós. After years at the helm of La Bodega del Riojano, one of the emblems of traditional cuisine in the region, he embarked on a venture with partners Carlos Crespo, an expert in creating successful businesses, to establish a restaurant according to his own vision.
Instead of plastering his name on the facade and creating a pretentious tasting menu, Ortiz decided to update the flavors of his childhood and pay homage to one of the richest larders in the country. This chef, born in the Pasiegos Valleys, works with free-range chickens raised by his parents in Castillo Pedroso, Catalina anchovies from Santoña, tomatoes from the La Cachona farm, and peppers from Isla.
The menu is simple, straightforward, and appealing, making it tempting to order almost everything. The Russian salad (€8-15) was a finalist in the Spanish championship held annually at San Sebastián Gastronomika. It's based on the traditional mix of potato, carrot, hard-boiled egg, tuna, and gherkins, to which they add piquillo peppers, trout roe, gherkins, pickled peppers, croutons, and anchovies.
The croquettes are smooth and creamy, with a thick breadcrumb coating and just the right amount of flavor; they cost €1.80 each and are perfect for sharing. The fried calamari (€16) is a must-try Cantabrian tapas dish. The chicken with rice (€40 for two people) is one of the house specialties, and you should definitely save room for the flan.