Scaturchio, la histórica pastelería de Nápoles, en la Piazza San Domenico
In Piazza San Domenico, the original Scaturchio shop remains Naples' benchmark pastry shop, although its counter has room for improvement.
Scaturchio is much more than a shop. Although the family no longer owns it after almost a century, and the business has suffered instability since the collapse of the original management, it remains a landmark for the city, for tourists, and for Neapolitans alike. Its locations have multiplied: in Vomero (Via Luca Giordano and, more recently, inside Castel Sant'Elmo), near the Central Station, and in Piazza Amedeo. A few years ago, it lost the concession for the lobby of the Teatro San Carlo.
The Piazza San Domenico location is noticeably more worn than the others. The terrace tables are somewhat scattered, the entrance is small and narrow with no accessibility signage, and the welcome at the counter is cold, not to say unfriendly. The opening hours are unremarkable for a pastry shop that also serves as a bar. Once seated, the waiter is knowledgeable and efficient, though not particularly charming, and takes a while to take the orders, which are plentiful. At the Via Luca Giordano and Piazza Amedeo locations, the service is friendlier and more attentive.
Prices are reasonable for table service. Most breakfast pastries and cakes cost €3, mini croissants and brioches €1.80, larger cakes between €3.50 and €5.50, and a toasted sandwich to share €4.50. Coffee, at €2.50, is more disappointing. Scaturchio, once considered expensive, is now in line with, or even slightly below, Neapolitan prices.
Among the products, the croissants were good, both the puff pastry ones and Isch's version, a cross between a croissant and a brioche, although without being particularly exciting. The braided brioche with jam was better, although not as light as expected, with a balanced touch of sweetness. The sfogliatella frolla and the babà were excellent, and the babà surprised a Neapolitan who isn't usually a fan of this dessert.
The Ministeriale, in its smaller version, is elegant to look at and fun to eat, with a crisp, textured chocolate shell and a liqueur cream that remains a mystery almost a century later. Breakfast cost €23.30.
Scaturchio remains a benchmark, despite its ups and downs and changes in ownership. The main location in Piazza San Domenico is the most worn, especially the counter and reception area. Must-tries: the Ministeriale, the babà, and the sfogliatella frolla. The sourdough items, however, are not as popular and need improvement.