Not just porcini mushrooms: chefs choose autumn's most surprising mushrooms

Autumn Mushrooms: Chefs' Memories of Porcini and Chanterelle Mushrooms

For Silvia Baracchi of Il Falconiere, a Michelin-starred restaurant within the eponymous Relais & Spa in Cortona (AR), it's a story that unites diverse landscapes: "In the dish 'Dal lago al bosco' (From the Lake to the Woods), Trasimeno duck meets porcini and chanterelle mushrooms, creating a dialogue between water and undergrowth. I adore this mushroom; it has a fruity, almost apricot-like aroma, a firm texture, and a golden color that brightens the dish. It complements the porcini mushrooms, bringing freshness and a delicate sweet note."

But it's above all the evocative value that strikes her. "For many Italians, it means gathering in the woods with their grandparents, the smell of home cooking in autumn, the sense of the changing seasons." An emotional dimension that, according to Baracchi, helps explain the profound connection between us and the world of mushrooms.

For Massimo Mantarro, executive chef at the Michelin-starred San Domenico Palace restaurant in Taormina (Messina), porcini mushrooms are also closely tied to personal memories: "I particularly love them for their intensity, aroma, and character, which perfectly represent autumn. Starting in October, when the weather permits, I enjoy going mushroom hunting and picking them myself."

A habit that reminds him of his father, who would dry porcini mushrooms in the sun or make preserves in oil to get through the winter months. "It was almost a ritual, performed with great patience and respect for the product," Mantarro continues. "Mushroom picking brings with it something that goes beyond the kitchen: it's a convivial moment of sharing, of connecting with nature, and even of relaxation."

Italian Mushrooms and Biodiversity: The Varieties Loved by Chefs

The connection between mushrooms and their territory also emerges forcefully in the words of Fabio Verrelli D'Amico, chef at the Michelin-starred restaurant Materia Prima in Pontinia (LT). His favorite? "Trumbette dei morti," or horn of plenty mushrooms, which allow me to use them as a powder, dried, or in oil. The mistake to avoid when cooking them is not fully understanding them. Each species has completely different characteristics. First, you need to delve deeper into their origins and aromatic nuances to adapt techniques and recipes appropriate for each individual mushroom."

For the Lazio chef, the connection between mushrooms and Italian cuisine is very close because "we live in a country where biodiversity is the greatest asset for production, and this very richness has fostered the emergence of regional recipes that today constitute a fundamental part of the national gastronomic culture. I would like to see poplar mushrooms and mazza di tamburo receive more attention."

While mushrooms are a staple in haute cuisine, they're also increasingly important in the world of pizza. Luca Cornacchia, pizza chef at Fermenta Pizzeria Gourmet in Chieti, explains: "Mushrooms are incredibly important in pizza. I use them exclusively during their natural season, favoring local varieties like pinarelli, cardoncelli, pioppini, and porcini."

"Among the signature pizzas," adds Cornacchia, "the "Sottobosco" stands out, combining Abruzzo wild mushrooms, chopped beef, and Tumino fondue, and "Cadono le foglie," built around porcini mushrooms in various consistencies. You have to educate the customer themselves about the quality and your work philosophy. The selection and sourcing of ingredients, including mushrooms, make the difference in the taste, texture, and appeal of the final product."

Mushrooms and Pizza: Pairings, Wine, and Autumn Cuisine

Mushrooms are also showcased through service and pairings. Sommelier Giorgia Santuccione, also at Fermenta, breaks the pizza-and-beer stereotype and proposes sparkling wines as the ideal partner for many autumnal mushroom dishes, focusing on the wine's ability to complement the bite without overpowering the aromas and textures.

From the mountains comes the voice of Niccolò De Riu, chef of the Michelin-starred Le Petit Bellevue at the Hotel Bellevue & Spa in Cogne (Aosta), who identifies morels as one of the most fascinating expressions of Italy's mycological heritage: "It's not just a simple accompaniment, but the absolute protagonist of the dish. Mushrooms have a unique flavor, different for each species, and they are the true protagonists of Italian cuisine, especially mountain cuisine."

The Aosta Valley chef also invites us to rediscover often overlooked species such as "drumsticks and blackthorns, which could find a greater place even in fine dining." His approach to pairings is also interesting: "If the mushroom is an ovule, which is very delicate, you'll need a much finer wine. If you're thinking of a honey agaric, it's different again."

Biodiversity and pairings: lesser-known mushrooms

Matteo Temperini, of the two-starred Campo del Drago at the Castiglion del Bosco, Rosewood Hotel (Siena), makes a plea for biodiversity: "I have a particular fondness for small wild mushrooms, like chanterelles and horns of the dead, for their intense aromas that recall the nature that surrounds us. Many wild mushrooms are still little known to the general public."

"I'd like to see them more present in restaurants," adds Temperini, "because they can enrich dishes and better showcase our region's great biodiversity. Their versatility allows them to be showcased both as the star of the dish and as a complementary ingredient capable of enhancing meat, fish, or pasta dishes."

"And when it comes to pairing," the chef concludes, "it's not so much the color that makes the difference as the balance. I prefer wines that aren't too acidic or overly vinous, but soft, elegant, and well-balanced, capable of accompanying the mushroom without overpowering its delicate flavors and aromatic nuances."

How to cook mushrooms: respecting the raw materials

If there's one theme all chefs agree on, it's absolute respect for the ingredients. Armando Aristarco, of Il Pantaleone at the Caruso, A Belmond Hotel, Amalfi Coast, in Ravello (SA), emphasizes: "The main mistake is overworking them and obscuring their identity. Mushrooms already possess a highly recognizable aromatic heritage and texture: technique should serve to enhance them, not transform them beyond recognition. It's also important to respect the characteristics of each variety, because not all require the same treatment. Some thrive with precise cooking, others can be enhanced even raw. As with many ingredients in our cuisine, I believe the key is to intervene only when necessary. I have a predilection for wild mushrooms, from cardoncelli to porcini to ovoli. I like them because they have very different identities and, above all, they allow you to work both raw and cooked, preserving different characteristics each time. Here, we pair them with scampi, for example."

Giacomo Vinci of Giano restaurant at the W Rome agrees. When asked about the most common cooking mistake, he offers a succinct answer: "Overcomplicating them. Each variety has different characteristics, textures, and water content, so the technique must adapt to the mushroom, not the other way around. When the ingredient is at its best, it's often sufficient to intervene as little as possible. They are deeply rooted in Italian gastronomic identity and the rhythm of the seasons."

"Each region has its own unique flavors," Vinci continues, "traditions and preparation methods, creating a strong sense of familiarity and nostalgia. They're an ingredient that conveys comfort and, at the same time, are deeply rooted in our gastronomic culture. We currently serve them with grilled Angus rib eye, along with a veal jus. The richness of the meat and jus creates a perfect balance with the intense, earthy, and umami character of the mushrooms."

Mushrooms, Memory, and Umami: A Chef's Story

Francesco Potenza, of the Don Carlos at the Grand Hotel et de Milan in Milan, offers a poetic reflection: "Mushrooms speak to the olfactory and emotional memories of Italians. They evoke walks in the woods, family traditions, and the changing seasons. They represent the perfect blend of indulgence and well-being, thanks to their ability to generate a feeling of satisfaction and rich flavors while remaining light and healthy. In keeping with my culinary philosophy, rooted in Mediterranean tradition and oriented toward a great balance of flavors without being overwhelming, my favorite is the chanterelle."

"I love it," Potenza continues, "for its extraordinary versatility and elegant aromatic profile: delicately fruity and spicy notes that don't overpower the other elements of the dish, but complement them. It also has a firm and crunchy texture that holds up wonderfully to cooking, ideal for both a quick sauté in the pan and for garnishing with brief acidic notes in a sour sauce." Gabriel Collazzo, of the Radici restaurant within the Borgo La Chiaracia Resort & Spa in Castel San Giorgio (Terni), closes the journey. For him, mushrooms are above all else: "The undisputed kings of the undergrowth and the autumnal cycle, but above all, the number one stimulants of the fifth taste perceived by the tongue, the famous umami, so sought after in Japanese culture. Umami means "tasty" or "delicious," important terms in Italian gastronomic culture."

"They're all fun with their textures," adds Gallazzo, "aromas and fragrances. For a passionate and progressive chef, it's difficult to have favorites, but if I have to choose one type, I'd say chanterelles and cremini mushrooms. In "Il Mio Minestrone," the chanterelles are barbecued and then sautéed in butter and parsley to preserve their woodsy, smoky flavor, ultimately seeking the "Gourmandise" (delicacy), as the French say. The cremini mushrooms, along with the shiitakes and dried porcini mushrooms, serve to enhance the umami broth, a crucial element in the dish."

Italian mushrooms: porcini, chanterelles, and other prominent varieties

Porcini mushrooms, chanterelles, morels, and trumpet mushrooms. This journey is summed up in the chefs' words. Each mushroom isn't just a seasonal ingredient; it tells a story, made up of forests, seasons, and traditions. And this is perhaps why we can't resist their charm at the table.