Necci al Pigneto turns 100: from a neighborhood dairy to an all-day eatery
Necci al Pigneto was founded in 1924 and is celebrating its 100th anniversary with five days of events. We tell its story, from a neighborhood dairy to Pasolini's bar, to today, one of the first all-day bistros in Rome.
What does it mean to run a 100-year-old venue? Necci dal 1924, a restaurant in Pigneto, knows a thing or two about it. They're celebrating their 100th birthday by organizing a very special "birthday" celebration, a five-day event (September 18th to 22nd) featuring live performances, shows, guided tours, and exhibitions by artists, illustrators, and artisans connected to the neighborhood. All events are free and under the patronage of Municipio V.
"The restaurant has always been run by the Necci family. We inherited it in 2007, along with all its history. And we obviously felt a tremendous responsibility, because this place has lived through legendary historical periods, from the war to the birth of the Pigneto neighborhood, frequented by artists and filmmakers, especially during the Neorealist era. We obviously renovated and expanded it, bringing a restaurant into what was once a small suburban bar. We opened it all day, but there's no doubt that the 100-year history of this place is intertwined with that of the neighborhood," Massimo Innocenti, current owner of Necci, tells us.
Returning to the anniversary, the centenary exhibitions are set in the 1st-century BC Roman hypogeum, a hidden treasure in the underground: these caves were discovered in July 2020 beneath Necci's premises and renovated in the following months. There's also a documentary produced by Necci's owners that tells their story and, by extension, that of the neighborhood that hosts them. "It's called Ericovero, in the Roman style," explains Massimo.
Today, the underground vault houses the finest wine cellar, a cheese fermentation room, and is a truly unique venue for events, tastings, and themed evenings.
Necci in Pigneto: History and Today's Culinary Offers
Necci, founded by the Necci family in 1924, began as a bar and dairy, a popular meeting place in a working-class area undergoing post-war reconstruction. Its growth paralleled that of the neighborhood, particularly when, in the 1950s, Pietro and Luigi, sons of founder Enrico Necci, took over the business and turned it into a landmark, setting, and location for many scenes in Pier Paolo Pasolini's film Accattone, a frequent visitor.
The current owners, who have brought Necci to the present day, took over the restaurant in 2007 and revolutionized it while preserving the historic nature of the sign and maintaining the rigorously artisanal nature of the entire gastronomic offering, from the pasta shop to the pastry shop.
And the offerings are extensive. Open all day, every day, Necci offers breakfast, lunch, dinner, and aperitifs all in one place. "One of the first bistros in Rome with this kind of formula," in Massimo's words.
An all-day formula, we might say, given that Necci houses a bakery, a café, a bistro for aperitifs, and a restaurant, as well as a cocktail bar for after-dinner drinks.
The day begins with a breakfast of croissants, biscuits, and brioche, all homemade. There are also various coffees to try, such as the iced coffee or the Apulian coffee with almond milk (€4). By mid-morning, the bakery begins churning out bread and pizza.
Later, it's time for an aperitivo before lunch, perhaps in the outdoor garden. There are several options to pair with drinks, from mixed platters (including vegan options) to homemade potato wedges (€6 per portion). For beverages, the wine list includes several Italian and Lazio labels, as well as European ones.
With the arrival of the colder season, aperitifs are also organized in the hypogeum with fixed-price packages (starting from 15 euros, upon reservation) that also include a visit to the Roman caves.
At lunchtime, Necci becomes a fully-fledged restaurant. The first courses offered are traditional Roman dishes with a modern twist, "keeping up with the times," as Massimo tells us when describing the restaurant's transfer of ownership from him to the Necci founders. For example, we find gnocchi with shrimp, pumpkin, and cherry tomatoes (14 euros) or spaghetti ajo e ojo with zucchini flowers and bottarga (12 euros). Don't miss the bucatini all'amatriciana (12 euros) or the homemade maltagliati with artisanal pesto (10 euros).
For those looking for a lighter lunch, there's no shortage of salads, eggplant meatballs, chickpea croquettes, or tuna tartare.
There are also several options for dinner, many in common with lunch, but with more space for grilled fish and meat, such as the Sakura Dry Aged beef steak (23 euros), roast octopus or seared tuna with marinated red cabbage (18 euros).
Necci since 1924. Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68, Rome. Tel. 06 97601552. Website. Facebook. Instagram.