At Berti in Milan, elegant tradition is renewed
Menu and prices. It's a bit old, having opened in 1866 (here's a nice bit of reminiscence), and much has changed since then, but the historic Da Berti needed a dusting off.
Berti's is on a street that was once just steps from Via Melchiorre Gioia and, more importantly, Piazza Gae Aulenti. From outside, you can see the skyscrapers of Porta Nuova rising up. These were once the guests, according to Marco Cremonesi's account in the Corriere, for the 150th anniversary: "The owner, Gigi Rota, recalls the favorite dishes of his countless guests: the osso buco that Gorbachev liked and pasta and beans for Riccardo Muti, the cutlet for Ermanno Olmi, and the cod for Father Turoldo. And, of course, the politicians: boiled meats for Bettino Craxi, risotto alla Beccaia for Walter Veltroni, and risotto al salto for Roberto Formigoni."
Much of Milan's elite is seated in these large rooms, at tables with double tablecloths (there's a splendid outdoor area outside). Old Radetsky proclamations still hang on the walls, while at the tables are wealthy ladies familiarizing themselves with the overly expansive waiters who, with a smile, order a plate of "biscuits, because we deserve them" and then try it, ready to fly away: "Gentlemen, do you want dessert or do you want me to stop talking? That's an option, too." But the gentlemen are in the mood, and here's a large bowl of berries with vanilla ice cream, as was the custom a few years ago.
The lady appreciates it and tells the bystanders about the time she went to Lamantia, "a phenomenon, imagine, there's not even a tablecloth." The height of exoticism, an (innocent) ex-convict who captivates with his rustic Sicilian cuisine, not like that other chef, "a boor, someone who sets tulle tablecloths on fire."
Menu and prices
That said, the place is worth a visit if you have relatives or friends visiting who want to enjoy lunch or dinner in an elegant yet convivial setting, where you can show off a bit of quiet opulence. All the classics are served, prepared with care: sautéed veal kidney (32), veal ossobuco with gremolata (38), Milanese cutlet (38), all three served with risotto.
And then risotto al salto (18), tagliolini with Culatello di Zibello and flakes of Grana Padano (20), pasta and beans (14), “New Zealand” lamb shank cooked at low temperature with potato millefeuille and rosemary (28), strips of beef fillet with porcini mushrooms and puree (26). Grilled, Florentine steaks as if it were raining and Black Angus (America) cuberoll 300 grams (58 euros).
The wine list is a classic. Yes, you guessed it: Tasca d'Almerita, Planeta, Donnafugata, Ceci, Tignanello, Frescobaldi, Feudi di San Gregorio...