Ether, two steps from heaven

If the nomination of the Lur restaurant, which we talked about a few weeks ago, for the Revelation Chef Award at Madrid Fusion 2025 has finally put the previously unknown neighborhood of Los Metales, next to Plaza de Legazpi, on the Madrid gastronomic map, it is a good time to recognize the pioneer of the area, Èter, located just 50 meters away.

Èter is the project of self-taught brothers Sergio (33 years old, kitchen) and Mario (27 years old, dining room and sommelier) Tofé, who in 2020 decided to give a twist to the French bistro that their mother and stepfather ran to convert it into a modern haute cuisine restaurant, with a lot of personality and making a flag of the trends in vogue, such as seasonality, sustainability, the commitment to small producers, the vindication of raw materials considered humble, dynamism and boldness when facing challenges and taking risks without losing balance.

The restaurant, with its minimalist interior clearly inspired by Nordic design and featuring many natural elements, especially wood, has barely half a dozen tables (well-spaced, which is appreciated) and a maximum capacity of 24 diners. The culinary offering consists of a single themed tasting menu (€93) with twelve courses that changes roughly every ten weeks, or about five times a year.

Currently, the menu dedicated to the mountains and forest is in effect, and it will be followed by the winter menu, the snowmelt menu, the seafood menu, the vegetable garden menu, and so on. And, given the dynamic nature of the menu we mentioned earlier, the dishes on the same menu may change from day to day depending on the available produce. Don't be surprised if one of the dishes listed below has been replaced by another.

The meal begins with a smooth and delicate cocktail, not at all invasive, low in alcohol and with a sweet-spicy touch, with bergamot, pine and fig leaf oil to give way to a solid first course, red mullet tartare with koji, persimmon and Polish baerii caviar, in which two of the constants that we will find throughout the menu appear: the nods to Japan and the presence of dairy notes, an indisputable inheritance from the French bistro.

The intense duck terrine (in which the whole duck is used, including the innards) with herbs (dill, mustard, spinach…) and orange is an original reinterpretation of the classic duck à l'orange, full of contrasts, which precedes a vindication of cultivated mushrooms in which the usually maligned shiitake, oyster mushroom and portobello are for once the stars… helped, of course, by a very Japanese and tasty dashi broth.

Next course: eel from the Ebro Delta with roasted pumpkin and an emulsion of its skins. The accompanying shiso leaf, intended to add freshness, feels a bit underpowered, and perhaps the dish could benefit from a touch more acidity or spiciness.

Next comes the most debatable moment. I'm not entirely convinced that, once the menu has already hit its stride, it makes sense to bring out a miso butter (splendid, I must say) that disrupts the rhythm a bit, especially since we've just been dipping bread in the mushroom dish. It would have worked better at the beginning, as an accompaniment to the cocktail.

Now it's time for a trip to Mexico, another country that greatly influences Èter's cuisine, as Mexican gastronomy was among the first the brothers experienced. So we head to the state of Michoacán for a version of Tarascan soup, where the stars are roasted tomatoes and beans, impeccably accompanied by saffron milk cap mushrooms and beef and veal tongue (mushroom and meat), with a touch of chili peppers. Outstanding.

The aquatic portion is divided between river and sea. From freshwater, there's grilled Pyrenean trout with grilled red chard and a touch of toasted cream. From saltwater, there are almost raw cockles with Luanco green beans, stewed in a traditional stock of pig's trotters and snout, the kind that seals your lips more than a Sicilian oath of omertà.

Hunting, as is the season, was a must. And in two forms. The small game, represented by hare in a wild (in every sense) and rich rice dish with Idiazabal cheese and black truffle, made with the Italian Carnaroli variety. And the large game, with an exquisitely delicate wild boar shank with chestnut, sage, white and red wine, and a touch of cocoa that is pure butter and reconciles us with this wild-tasting pig that is often so difficult to get our teeth into.

Two desserts. Traditional pears poached in wine are taken to Japan and transformed into pears poached in sake, topped with a bay leaf crumble and a touch of citrus caviar. A display of technique that also refreshes and cleanses the palate before finishing with a more decadent pumpkin sponge cake with pecan emulsion and Madagascar vanilla ice cream.

Mario's wine cellar may not be the largest or most varied in the world, but it exudes passion, personality, and originality. While there isn't a specific wine pairing available, putting yourself in his hands is more than just a pleasant experience. Especially because, as he himself says, and as you can see for yourself, he chooses the wines for each dish with the dish's flavor in mind. "The dishes belong to the older brother, and you have to respect that," he remarks. I completely agree, because they are serious business... even if some Michelin Guides don't seem to realize it.