Meigma: also Cassiotian dolmadia and schnitzel at the new tavern in Kerameikos
In the space (where Gogo Delogianni's Stoa Kerameikos used to be) Chrona uncovered the old mosaics and warmed up the environment quite a bit with lots of plants and works of art.
The juicy sheftalies go well with the cool tabbouleh with tahini yogurt and raw tomato sauce, while the cannelloni with rooster ragout and béchamel with Naxos arseniko, although you wouldn't exactly call them meze, are also delicious. There's a lot more on the menu: frigadeli, shepherd's pie with minced lamb, savory donut with wild mushroom powder, arseniko and caramelized hazelnuts, baked fava beans with Tzoumagia sausage... There's also a crispy pork schnitzel that won me over with its accompaniments: Kalloni anchovies, capers and a little chopped onion and fennel.
The 70+ wines on the list are exclusively from Greek vineyards, most of them mildly influenced, with several affordable options among them. The list is also complemented by several well-chosen spirits. Meigma opens early for coffee and breakfast, such as pancakes with pumpkin seeds or trahana with goat's milk, feta cheese and hazelnuts.