Strength and aesthetics of Cremona and Mantua mustard
Glass jars filled with apples, figs, cherries, and pears. Spicy preserves to spread, or served in small bowls on cutting boards. Let's discover Lombard mostarda in its two most famous varieties.
Fruit, sugar, and mustard are the basic ingredients of mostarda, which in Lombardy is divided between the cities of Mantua and Cremona. Traditionally, it's made by hand at Christmas, then becomes a key accompaniment to many dishes throughout the year. We have records of an ancient 13th-century recipe for preserving fruit for a long time in winter, made of cooked must and mustard seeds, mostum ardens, or burning must.
Cremona mostarda is both sweet and spicy because it uses whole or large-sized pieces of fruit. The result is a striking, vibrant product, perfect for the holiday table.
The most traditional way to pair it is with fatty meats: mixed boiled meats, foie gras or capon and chicken.
Along with nougat, mostarda is a true source of pride for Cremona, and its greatest celebration is the Mostarda Festival 7.0. The event takes over the streets and restaurants until November 30th. The event is spread throughout the region and streamed online. On menus throughout the city, you'll find mostarda paired with boiled meats and pumpkin risotto, goose liver, cheeses, and ice cream.
Mantua's mostarda is made with a single fruit, specifically Campanina apples, thinly sliced as is traditional in its rural form. The spiciness can be easily tempered by pouring it into bowls and stirring, then letting it steep for a few hours before serving. In the city's most famous dish, Mantua's pumpkin tortelli, mostarda is one of the filling ingredients, along with amaretti biscuits.
It can be served with charcuterie boards, especially culatello, and aged cheeses. The Mantua area produces three DOP products: Grana Padano, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Provolone Valpadana. Mantua also dedicates a festival to its mustard in the autumn, held at Palazzo Te and the Loggia del Grano.
Mustard can be tried with burrata, a nod to Southern Italy. It also goes well with fish, such as marinated salmon.