An NYC Queer Restaurant Is Breaking Fine Dining For The Better
What sort of scene comes to mind when you think of fine dining? Maybe you think of white tablecloths, a din of polite conversation, and the living specter of Ralph Fiennes hovering over the dining room as he does in "The Menu."
“My identity, of living in this world in a trans body, leads me towards needing to question and investigate all dogmatically held beliefs in the kitchen,”
At New York City's HAGS (an acronym for both "have a great summer" and "old haggard witchy women"), many of the characteristics associated with upscale restaurants are left behind in the name of queer joy, a safe and accepting work environment, and a serotonin-heavy vibe. Telly Justice and Camille Lindsley's restaurant took over the tiny flagship space of celebrity chef David Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar on Manhattan's Lower East Side in April 2022 and has been racking up reservations since.
While most restaurateurs count food as their main selling point, HAGS puts identity first, billing itself as a place "by queer people for all people." Doing so adds to the growing legacy of LGBTQIA-centric eateries like Meme's Diner (RIP). Here's how the space stands out from the crowd.
A refreshing change of pace
Queerness is central to HAGS in more ways than one. First and foremost, the space welcomes diners of all identities and is co-owned by a queer couple. What's more, it forsakes traditional stodginess by knocking down the walls of fear and reverence that have been known to surround male-dominated, Michelin-star kitchens.
On a recent visit to the cozy 20-seat restaurant, Insider's Rachel Askinasi noted that the kitchen was "...open to any substitutions and will meet various dietary restrictions," a far cry from the no-substitutions dynamic you might find elsewhere. She added that interactions between servers and customers were decidedly friendly and relaxed and that the space was primarily composed of objects made by artists and small businesses.
If all of those elements make HAGS sound unlike any other fine dining institution you've visited, it's because it is. "My identity, of living in this world in a trans body, leads me towards needing to question and investigate all dogmatically held beliefs in the kitchen," Telly Justice told Eater.
An ever-changing menu
While queer-minded operations take precedence over food at HAGS, that doesn't mean its offerings aren't delicious and thoughtfully prepared. "You can make somebody's life better with food," Justice told Eater. And if variety is, in fact, the spice of life, then your life will be doubly improved by eating at HAGS; the menu constantly changes depending on the preferences and dietary restrictions of any given party.
That said, seasonal fare seems to serve as a broad theme. A sample of HAGS' current tasting menu (which can also be served as a full-portion prix-fixe dinner for a little extra) includes options like tofu with artichokes, nettles, tahini, and saffron; Steelhead with jalapeño, apple, and dandelion; pork with sunchokes, Brussels sprouts, navel orange, and oregano; and chocolate mousse with candied tempeh and coffee for dessert.
If your mouth is watering, but you're strapped for cash, keep an eye out on Instagram for the restaurant's next pay-what-you-can night.