Spicy, sour, and salty flavors characterize Saam's Thai cuisine
Saam, Ton Tassanakajohn's first restaurant in the United States, offers an accessible Thai style, far removed from pad thai and tom yum, with spicy, sour, and salty dishes.
Saam is the first US restaurant from renowned chef Thitid "Ton" Tassanakajohn, known for Le Du and Nusara, two Michelin-starred Bangkok establishments. It's a much more casual project, offering a taste of his style at an accessible price point without the need to travel. The name means "three" in Thai, alluding to the collaboration between Tassanakajohn, Tee Atthapon, and Ty Choosuwon, and to the three elements of Thai cuisine: hot, sour, and salty.
The dining room combines cream and terracotta tones with warm woods. A curved bar, bordered by terracotta tiles shaped like fish scales, leads to a back bar illuminated with wine bottles. Shelves display ceramics and preserved fruits and vegetables, and the tables, made of wood or covered with square tiles, are accompanied by chairs upholstered in patterned fabric or rattan.
To start, the za jin tuna ($35) was the star of the menu: it features a green cilantro sauce, thick slices of tomato, and slivers of lean akami tuna, with fried shallots adding texture. The prawn tartare ($20) comes with a three-point spice indicator and is served without bread or chips, so it doesn't seem intended for sharing.
In the curry section, the gaeng kua clams ($29) were the group's favorite. They come with Manila clams in a curry sauce, with bits of curry paste clinging to the shells, and are served with jasmine rice. The pad ped ped ($39) combines pieces of duck with tender coconut, cooked in shrimp paste, and the coconut adds a sweet and refreshing touch. The ka lum pad nam pla ($19), cabbage cooked with fish sauce, provides a savory counterpoint.
The drinks menu is currently limited to wines by the bottle and glass, with origins ranging from Sonoma and the Suisun Valley to France, Italy, and South Africa. There are few beers, three of them Thai, and three non-alcoholic wines, a pandan spritz, Thai iced tea, a lemongrass drink, and soft drinks. The plan is to launch a full cocktail menu, but for now, there are three wine-based cocktails, such as the Saam Royale, made with raspberry wine, sparkling wine, and fresh herbs.
A tip: Saam offers sato, a traditional Thai glutinous rice wine that's hard to find in US restaurants. During our visit, they were expecting their next shipment from Thailand, so it's a good idea to ask beforehand if it's available.