Zoltán Teleky, de Kikelet: cocina húngara progresista en el Mecsek

Teleky had said he no longer wanted to run an à la carte restaurant, but Kikelet motivated him to prove to himself that he could create one of the best and most demanding restaurants in the country in the Mecsek region. He describes it as a modern establishment, without pretensions of haute cuisine, featuring cutting-edge technology and quality ingredients, designed so that everyone can find something to their liking.

The project started from scratch in a building protected as a historical landmark, which lengthened the construction time. The space was transformed extensively to achieve a modern and elegant interior, in harmony with the house, without making any compromises. After a year and a half of work, the people of Pécs already remember the place fondly.

The location, on the Mecsek side, offers perhaps the most beautiful panoramic view of the city. Teleky compares it to the Rege in Tihany, which overlooks Lake Balaton; from here, you can see Pécs and much of the surrounding region. This setting is combined with the quality and character of the food, the interior design, the music, and even the attire of the waiters and chefs, all coordinated down to the last detail.

In its first phase, the restaurant achieved its goals, but it now seeks to reach a broader market segment. It defines itself as a progressive Hungarian bistro: a dish doesn't become innovative simply with parsley oil or a different presentation; rather, the technique must evolve, and the diner must recognize a familiar flavor. Among the standout dishes are the Gypsy roast, with confit rib served almost like a steak, and the duck trio, featuring breast, leg, and foie gras, accompanied by red cabbage cream. Vegans can opt for a cauliflower steak with an Eastern Mediterranean flavor.

To maintain a balance between innovation and classic dishes, the menu includes traditional Hungarian favorites, with diners familiar with a repertoire of twenty to twenty-five items. For example, the salmon trout fillet is served with a chilled pumpkin and dill stew, reminiscent of Grandma's pumpkin stew without being quite the same. The menu also reflects Baranya's philosophy: local producers are sourced whenever possible, with seasonal ingredients, and the Mecsek beef tartare combines marinated wild mushrooms, pickled mustard seeds, and dry-aged beef tenderloin.

Teleky and chef László Kuzma collaborate on the menu: the chef writes a draft, Teleky suggests changes and considers what will sell, because it's not a good idea for a group to leave because they can't find a dish they like. The restaurant isn't the most expensive in the city, but it prioritizes quality service. A spacious, independent venue allows them to host events for eighty to one hundred people, with the idea of ​​holding them weekly to keep costs down for the à la carte restaurant.

The hospitality sector is going through a difficult time. Teleky believes there isn't enough money circulating, that going to a restaurant has become a luxury for many, and that the lack of qualified professionals is an even bigger problem, because it's very difficult to find someone who can embody the restaurant's philosophy. Therefore, expanding is complicated.

Teleky is approaching Kikelet with a different kind of maturity than in his previous projects. He wants it to be his main focus, a place that can serve all purposes: dining, brunch, coffee on the terrace, weddings, or corporate events. His aspiration is for it to be one of the best restaurants in the country and, at the same time, a place where everyone can find what they need. The restaurant already holds a special place in the memories of Pécs residents, having hosted first dates, marriage proposals, and weddings.