Rutz celebrates 25 years with an anniversary menu focused on trout
Rutz celebrates its 25th anniversary with a special menu whose signature dish is a trout received on the same day it is served.
For its owner, the anniversary is like a lifetime's work. He had already developed part of the concept with the founder, Lars Rutz, even before opening the restaurant. "This is the realization of a dream."
When it started, the kitchen had four people. The idea was to change things: it wasn't just about good food, but also about hospitality, ideas, working in a contemporary way, reviving forgotten traditions, and being more regional, something that haute cuisine wasn't at the time. Many of the techniques they use today didn't exist, so they had to develop them themselves.
According to its owner, the restaurant is halfway there: "Right in the middle; I don't feel like we're finished." From the outside, it might seem like it has peaked, but for the person running it, it's just the beginning. The motivation remains as strong as ever.
The signature dish on the anniversary menu is trout, reflecting their philosophy of selecting the finest ingredients. The fish arrives in the morning from a small fish farm in Schleswig-Holstein and, when served in the evening, is less than twelve hours old. Just before serving, the fillet is coated with trout garum, prepared in-house ten months prior, and garnished with trout roe, dried roe, a garum emulsion, and baked skin. The idea is to enhance the natural flavor, not mask it.
The swede adds freshness and texture: part of it is fermented for twelve hours, another part is marinated in buttermilk, and a slightly gelatinized portion is placed on top. An emulsion of charcoal and buttermilk imparts toasted aromas without frying the fish. In total, the dish has 15 components, but the predominant flavor is that of the trout.
The kitchen works with simple, regional products, elevating them to their fullest potential. Fermentation, garums, and vinegars are used to clarify flavors, not intensify them. Executive chef Marco Müller and his team's creations are minimalist, inspired by nature, and precisely composed, featuring aromas like fir, elderberry, and sumac, along with a delicate acidity.
The wine list boasts 700 selections, reflecting the owners' experience as wine merchants, and sommelier Sebastian Höpfner creates the pairings. The menus are offered with 12 or 13 "inspirations" (omnivorous or vegetarian), and the more limited "Berlin Size Menu" features six courses. The restaurant is spread over two floors with walnut wood, leather, and natural stone, and the host, Falco Mühlichen, oversees the service.
The Schmidt family has run Rutz since its inception. According to its head, in a small company things can be done differently, and direct communication channels allow for quick decisions: "If you try to please everyone, the result is mediocrity." In the kitchen, the final decision rests with one person. Looking ahead, the goal is to continue enjoying the work and the people with ideas, because right now there are more projects than can be implemented.