Little John from Rota grows up in Jerez

After the warm reception of Little John in Rota (Cádiz), the unique burger restaurant that sommelier Juan Ruiz Henestrosa decided to open in the middle of the pandemic, the expansion of the business was only a matter of time.

Big John has just opened in Jerez, which he considers his "life project" because it reaffirms the success of the original idea and consolidates a restaurant model that will soon arrive in Madrid and then also in Malaga.

The opening of Jerez is doubly significant. Firstly, because the sommelier is partnering with some of his team to bring it to fruition. Secondly, because he is following the advice he received from the late Santi Santamaria to venture alongside the competition.

No sooner said than done. The new Big John in Jerez is just a few meters from a McDonald's, which Henestrosa knows he doesn't have to worry about. "You'll come out on top in that comparison," his dear friend Santamaria had warned him. The day after the soft opening, reserved for suppliers, wineries, and friends who have been with Henestrosa since the first Aponiente, people were already coming to Big John with the intention of trying it.

Intergenerational people spread out between its tables and its bar framed by glasses to toast with sparkling wines and sherries.

Also featuring brisados, a personal favorite of Esperanza Jiménez, the sommelier to whom Henestrosa has entrusted the Big John wine list. “She’s let me do a couple of crazy things that go well with Juan’s latest offering,” she explains.

He's an ambassador for Louis Roederer champagne, which he showcases at Big John in different vintages, alongside Recaredo cava and a Burgundy cremat. All three are offered as a perfect pairing for any of the restaurant's burgers, as well as the braised baby gem lettuce, patatas bravas more sophisticated than those in Rota, and braised chicken wings that are simply divine. They're incomparable, especially since they also incorporate fino sherry into their recipe.

The culinary aspect involves Curro Noriega. “He was the first person to hear about Little John and Big John from me,” says Henestrosa. The teacher and mastermind behind Besana Tapas in Utrera (Seville) acts as an advisor for both establishments, imbuing them with a culinary informality that is purely superficial.

Because behind every item on the menu there's a lot of cooking and zero rhetoric. Especially at Big John, they further develop haute cuisine techniques, lighten up their offerings, and aspire to achieve "the first Bib Gourmand for a European burger joint," Henestrosa adds.

The winner of the National Gastronomy Award in 2015 sources his supplies from "the same suppliers as the best restaurants in Andalusia," luxury glassware for all his drinks, Laguiole knives to cut his hamburgers, and a loyal team to breathe easy with.

It's all made up of young Andalusians with successful track records who, instead of opting for restaurants of a different caliber, have decided to champion the project envisioned by Juan Ruiz Henestrosa. In Rota, Jerez, and wherever needed.

At Big John, La Faraona takes center stage and boasts the most enticing burger on the menu. It features a bun from La Cremita, beef from José Rosa, Fontanal El Bucarito cheese, lard, egg yolk sauce, and pork cracklings. Quite something… And in the glass, a Blanc Brisat from Orto Vins.

A revelation for the sommelier, a proponent of popularizing wine consumption over beer in her region. “We also like to support small wineries that don't reach everyone with their minimally bred or biodynamic wines,” adds Jiménez, whose pairings you can trust.

Even at dessert, the generous sherries of Jerez are equally present in every finish. The average price of a meal remains around €30 or even less, depending on your appetite.