Carnale in Rome: premium cuts, an open grill, and matching cocktails in the gardens just steps from St. Peter's

Carnale in Rome. Leaving the Vatican and the traffic of Via Gregorio VII behind you, you arrive at Vicolo del Gelsomino: this is where Carnale was born, inaugurated on June 24, 2021. Upon entering, you immediately feel like you're outside the city, thanks to the two spacious adjoining gardens and the lush greenery of Parco Piccolomini surrounding the venue. Here, the two Romito brothers decided to open a restaurant and cocktail bar with an international menu, where meat takes center stage.

Carnale's goal is to offer Romans premium cuts of meat from around the world, to be enjoyed grilled (in full view) or cooked using other methods. They also offer select cured meats and cheeses, pasta dishes, carpaccios, tartares, and a drink menu designed to complement the meat. We visited Carnale before its opening to speak with Andrea Romito, one of the owners, and chef Francesco Gagliardi, to get a sneak peek of all the details.

How Carnale was born

Andrea Romito and his brother Gabriele come from the restaurant world: "When we heard that this space, once a workshop, had become available, we immediately had the idea of ​​opening a restaurant. Coming here at various times of the day, we realized the immense potential of these two connected gardens, which are surrounded by the lush vegetation of Parco Piccolomini, thus being isolated from the noise and traffic of the city." Initially, Andrea and Gabriele considered opening a restaurant modeled after Apulian farmhouses, but the project was scrapped due to concerns about appearing overly specialized and not catering to a potential tourist audience, given the proximity to St. Peter's. "We opted for refined cuisine, which would fit with the type of location we envisioned."

The space

Carnale extends over a total space of 1,000 square meters, 600 of which are dedicated to dining. The decor plays on contrasts: upon entering, we find ourselves faced with a large garden, adorned with the neon sign "Carnale"; in the center, a brazier surrounded by a small amphitheater; to the left, an open space that will be used as a covered dining room in the winter. Here, we find a large social table, made from a split oak board, with red velvet seats. We continue into the area dedicated to cocktails, prepared at a glass and concrete counter; from here, a door converted from an old Tuscan barn leads to the second garden, where wrought-iron gazebos create an intimate atmosphere. Surrounding, and thus isolating, the tables is the greenery of Parco Piccolomini, which nevertheless leaves a small opening through which one can glimpse the dome of St. Peter's.

The concept

"We didn't want to focus on Michelin-starred cuisine, but for us, the clear inspiration remains haute cuisine," explains Andrea. "Before opening, my brother and I put ourselves in the customer's shoes, thinking about what they would like to see that's innovative in Rome, and what kind of location would be appropriate for enjoying a menu like ours." Carnale is the answer, as the two brothers explain: premium cuts from around the world, elegantly plated on Schönhuber Franchi plates, and a menu that remains faithful to the idea of ​​selecting rare ingredients.

The chef

At this point, we chat with Chef Francesco Gagliardi: a Roman with extensive experience abroad, in Australia and the United States, as well as further training within the brigades overseen by Chefs Cardinetti and Marzetti. The first thing Francesco explains is his key role in choosing the meat: "I've had the opportunity to taste various types, and also learned to recognize the authenticity of a product. Take Wagyu, for example, a now overused term used to indicate particularly fatty meats, when in reality the only authentic Wagyu is the one produced in Japan, which carries a certificate of origin. We currently serve Hida Wagyu, considered among the best on the market." Another key aspect Francesco focuses on is choosing which cuts to grill, to best showcase the product, and which ones to serve on the plate. Among the menu's offerings is the Secreto di Maialino Iberico (25 euros), the chef's favorite dish: "The secreto is the most prized cut of pork: in this case, it is marinated for 24 hours in a pineapple and spice-based juice; it is then quickly grilled and served with seasonal Swiss chard and caramelized pineapple, which enhances the flavor of the pork and echoes the marinade, all accompanied by a homemade barbecue sauce."

The menu

The menu is divided into several levels: the first section, "from the fire," features grilled cuts, including the 1200g Prussian Sashimi Florentine steak (€85) and the 800g Rangers Valley Farm Australian Black Angus Tomahawk (€140). The cuisine section continues, offering more traditional options, such as the Italian veal Milanese (€20), as well as the Black Angus Roast Beef and beef stock (€20). Tartares, carpaccios, and various starters are also available, such as the Finnish Sashimi tataki, served with watermelon gazpacho and ginger carrots (€18). A wide selection of cured meats and cheeses, starting with Mangalitza mortadella (15 euros), continuing with Amaseno buffalo mozzarella (12 euros), and ending with Mimolette Beffroi (15 euros), a French cheese aged 210 days with a fruity, nutty aroma. There's also plenty of room for homemade pasta, topped with Amalfi lemon, pistachio, and Andria stracciatella (18 euros), as well as salads and desserts. Carnale collaborates with Alessandro Laudadio, a pastry chef with years of experience at Eden: among his specialties, we highlight the hot-cold tiramisu, with mascarpone mousse, warm coffee foam, and crunchy cocoa crumble (10 euros).

Beverage

The beverage section is headed by Jordy Di Leone, who curated the wine list, which features mostly Italian labels, with a few foreign exceptions. The drinks list includes fruit juices (€4), creative mocktails (€8), and classics, as well as twelve signature cocktails. Among them, Il Carnale stands out, a blend of wine and drink, made with Grappa Frattina bianca, cognac, lime juice, red wine syrup flavored with cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and mint leaves (€10).

How Carnale Works

Given the arrival of summer, Carnale is currently open daily from 6:00 PM to 2:00 AM. In addition to dinner, you can also stop by for an aperitivo, as an entrée is served alongside the cocktails, or for an after-dinner drink. Reservations are highly recommended, especially because, as Andrea says, "We want to start slowly but surely: our mission is quality."

Carnale. Vicolo del Gelsomino 17, Rome, Tel. 06 87567 256. Website. Facebook page. Open every day from 6pm to 2am. Free parking in Largo Micara, 50m away.