Mestres, los vinos espumosos por los que compiten los mejores restaurantes

It's always sparkling wine season. And they know this well in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, the birthplace of Cava, home to one of Catalonia's most historic and respected wineries: Mestres. With roots dating back to the 14th century, the Mestres family has played a role that, over time, has become more essential than ever in the evolution of Cava and the region's viticulture.

From its humble beginnings producing still wines to the creation of its first Brut Nature in 1945, Mestres has been a benchmark in the booming, and not always well-understood, Cava industry. Now we can confidently say that this journey has yielded outstanding results, distinguished by its dedication to quality and innovation, as well as its close ties to haute cuisine. Today, the winery is more than ever a leading name in the world of Cava, with a limited production focused on authenticity and elegance.

The creation of the first Brut Nature

The story of modern Mestres begins in 1925, when Antonio Mestres decided to produce his first bottle of cava. However, the winery's major milestone came in 1945 with the creation of its first Brut Nature. At a time when sparkling wines were generally sweet, Antonio Mestres and his team dared to challenge tradition, creating a dry cava with no dosage or added sugar. This transformed the profile of cava and aligned it with a much more gastronomic vision. That Brut Nature was designed not only for celebrations but also to accompany meals, an innovative concept at the time, and one that remains truly groundbreaking.

The idea of ​​creating a cava that could pair with any dish was revolutionary. We mustn't forget that sparkling wines of that era were very sweet and were considered more of a drink for celebrations or special occasions. Antonio Mestres' vision was different: he wanted a sparkling wine with the elegance and complexity necessary to complement a wide variety of recipes. Thus, Mestres' Brut Nature was born as a drier and more refined offering, designed to highlight the natural characteristics of the grape and the terroir.

His gastronomic philosophy

Over the decades, Mestres has maintained a close relationship with gastronomy, an aspect that has proven crucial to its current success and differentiation within the broad and diverse Cava market. From its earliest years, the winery has been characterized by its close collaboration with renowned chefs and restaurants, including Santi Santamaría and Andoni Luis Aduriz, with whom it has worked to create Cavas that complement the complex flavors of haute cuisine. The production of Cavas with a vinous character and extended aging has now become one of the defining elements of its philosophy, establishing it as a benchmark for food lovers and sommeliers.

Mestres has somehow understood that cava can be much more than just a drink for toasting. In other words, they have been part of the evolution and representation of what a sophisticated wine can be, capable of pairing with a wide variety of dishes. This approach has led them to invest time in extended aging processes, using barrels to ferment and mature some of their cavas, which gives them greater character. This, as we have already mentioned, sets them apart in the international sparkling wine scene, making them highly valued beyond our borders.

The long upbringing

One of the most remarkable aspects of Mestres Cava is its extended aging. Instead of following the trend of producing Cavas with shorter, more commercial aging periods, the winery has remained focused on quality, with Cavas that can spend more than 15 years in the bottle. Mestres has forgone mass production and concentrated on a more artisanal approach, where respect for the traditional process and patience have become the hallmarks of the winery.

Cavas like Mas Via are perfect examples of this approach to playing with time and disgorging. A model to follow in terms of elegance, complexity, and structure. This long evolution in the bottle, along with aging in barrels, makes them a smooth and highly enjoyable wine, gaining in richness of flavor and a softer mouthfeel. Something that makes them unique.

Fight in the sector

Today, Mestres cavas are exceptionally well-positioned. For example, their entry-level Coquet 2019 can be found for €20. An excellent price considering its aging time. The same is true for their Elena Mestres 2019 and Visol 2017, which retail for around €25. And, it's worth noting, the winery has always been committed to limited and selective production. More exclusive cavas (sometimes hard to find) like Clos Nostre Senyor 2015 (€40) and Mas Via 2004 (€60) showcase new, yet time-honored, ways of positioning themselves in an increasingly globalized market. These cavas reflect the winery's tradition but are adapted to the tastes of a more discerning and knowledgeable consumer.

The market is paying increasing attention to these sparkling wines, with growing interest in long-aged cavas, such as those from Mestres, especially among sommeliers and foodies. The future looks promising. Despite the challenges of a seemingly saturated cava industry, with brands opting for mass production and competition from other appellations of origin, Mestres has managed to remain true to its philosophy.