Ven por el vino, quédate por la pasta en Füm
Füm, enmarcado por olivos en un patio ventilado, es un nuevo y luminoso restaurante italiano en West Midtown. Pertenece al grupo Grassfed Culture Hospitality Group de Miami, el mismo equipo detrás del restaurante Los Félix, galardonado con una estrella Michelin.
Füm, framed by olive trees on a breezy patio, is an airy new Italian restaurant in West Midtown. It comes from Miami’s Grassfed Culture Hospitality Group, the same team behind Michelin-starred Los Félix. Inside, the open kitchen sets the stage: a pastaio (pasta maker) pulls fresh noodles, seemingly moving to the groove of the DJ playing lo-fi records in the dining room. The wine list only packs biodynamic and organic Italian producers and grower Champagne, keeping the selection regional and intentional.
What to order
- The AFM (Atlanta Fried Mushrooms, $24) are crispy oyster mushrooms served on a pecorino sauce and chive oil. Wash it down with Franciacorta or Vadin-Plateau grower Champagne.
- The pappardelle ($36) stands out. Wide ribbons of pasta are coated in rich beef ragu and 36-month aged Parmesan. Add the Caesar salad ($20), topped with a 48-month Parmesan, for a side-by-side taste of aged cheeses.
- The tuna carpaccio ($22), rolled with pistachio and finished with fermented caper leaves, nods to Sicilian flavors in a sleek, modern presentation.
- The wine list is a nerd’s dream; ask wine director Josh Claxton for offbeat pours like an Emilia-Romagna skin-contact white Orsi Podere Vino Bianco Sasso, which tastes like flowers and oranges.
The vibe
Service takes the cake. Midway through a martini, a server swapped in a freshly chilled glass to keep the drink icy as the evening lingered. Plates are replaced for each course, as tables are wiped without intrusion. On a recent Wednesday, the dining room buzzed with date nights, birthday celebrations, and suited professionals, a sign of renewed energy in West Midtown.
Take note
Classic Italian pantry staples: pistachios, pine nuts, hazelnuts, oxtail, and mushrooms, anchor the menu with modern polish. Repeated hits of herb oils, capers, and pecorino/Parmesan sauces can blur the dishes together over time. The wine list, however, is the jazz hands distraction, introducing brightness and surprise.
Insider tip
Füm plans to open a rooftop cocktail bar, Rabbit Ears, in the same building this April.