Come for the Wine, Stay for the Pasta at Füm

Füm, framed by olive trees on a breezy patio, is an airy new Italian restaurant in West Midtown. It comes from Miami’s Grassfed Culture Hospitality Group, the same team behind Michelin-starred Los Félix. Inside, the open kitchen sets the stage: a pastaio (pasta maker) pulls fresh noodles, seemingly moving to the groove of the DJ playing lo-fi records in the dining room. The wine list only packs biodynamic and organic Italian producers and grower Champagne, keeping the selection regional and intentional.

What to order

• The AFM (Atlanta Fried Mushrooms, $24) are crispy oyster mushrooms served on a pecorino sauce and chive oil. Wash it down with Franciacorta or Vadin-Plateau grower Champagne.
• The pappardelle ($36) stands out. Wide ribbons of pasta are coated in rich beef ragu and 36-month aged Parmesan. Add the Caesar salad ($20), topped with a 48-month Parmesan, for a side-by-side taste of aged cheeses.
• The tuna carpaccio ($22), rolled with pistachio and finished with fermented caper leaves, nods to Sicilian flavors in a sleek, modern presentation.
• The wine list is a nerd’s dream; ask wine director Josh Claxton for offbeat pours like an Emilia-Romagna skin-contact white Orsi Podere Vino Bianco Sasso, which tastes like flowers and oranges.

The vibe

Service takes the cake. Midway through a martini, a server swapped in a freshly chilled glass to keep the drink icy as the evening lingered. Plates are replaced for each course, as tables are wiped without intrusion. On a recent Wednesday, the dining room buzzed with date nights, birthday celebrations, and suited professionals, a sign of renewed energy in West Midtown.

Take note

Classic Italian pantry staples: pistachios, pine nuts, hazelnuts, oxtail, and mushrooms, anchor the menu with modern polish. Repeated hits of herb oils, capers, and pecorino/Parmesan sauces can blur the dishes together over time. The wine list, however, is the jazz hands distraction, introducing brightness and surprise.

Insider tip

Füm plans to open a rooftop cocktail bar, Rabbit Ears, in the same building this April.