Pairing sushi with wine and sake: sommelier Imre Rácz's criteria

The main rule for pairing wine with sushi is that the drink should complement the food without overpowering it. With raw fish, the wine should be a subtle and delicate finishing touch: care must be taken to ensure it doesn't alter the flavor of the marinades and spices, nor overpower the fish. Two trends coexist in sushi: dishes that prioritize raw fish, such as sashimi, and rolls. In the former case, the quality of the raw ingredients is fundamental.

The rolls often feature intense flavors, such as ginger, citrus, and pickled ingredients, so the choice requires more care. Since raw fish only needs minimal additions, it's essential to know which dishes the wine pairs well with. Clean, reductive, and crisp white wines go well with citrus: Spago's wine list includes Sauvignon Blanc and Green Veltliner, and a creamier, butterier Chardonnay complements dishes like sushi with avocado.

It's also worth debunking some common misconceptions. As with red meat and red wine, there are much freer and deeper connections between food and drink. For example, the idea that sushi is only paired with sake is a cliché: the Japanese rice beverage is a great option, but it's not the only one.

At Spago, the newly added bluefin tuna is tender, meaty, fatty, and juicy, and pairs perfectly with a very smooth white wine or a delicate sake, because any beverage that overpowers it will spoil it. The "Golden Sea Cucumber Toast," with crispy corn tortilla, avocado, ginger, lime, and cilantro, follows the same principle: the quality of the fish takes center stage, and the drink serves as a refreshing accompaniment.

The "Szechuan-style flamed Hamachi," with Chinese chili oil, sesame, and chives, has a spicy kick, so order a semi-dry wine with minimal residual sugar, such as a yellow muscatel: aromatic and floral, though not as sweet as a dessert wine. With heat-treated fish, such as the dragon fruit fried fish, red wines also work well, provided they are light and tannic, like a Siller, a Pinot Noir, or a fruitier Provençal rosé, made to be dry.

Sake has a subtle flavor described as umami. According to the sommelier, its consumption is still in its early stages in Hungary, so experts are needed to introduce diners to the world of sushi. Imre Rácz volunteered at the World Sommelier Championship in the sake section, and his knowledge of this beverage is practically inexhaustible.

The quality of sake depends on the type of rice, the water, and the degree of polishing. Polishing removes the outer layer of the grain, exposing its starch-rich core: sake made from highly polished rice is lighter, while sake made from less polished rice is more intense and full-bodied. The water is also key, whether it's glacial water, infinitely soft and pure, or snowmelt. As with wine, full-bodied sakes pair best with oily fish or sushi with avocado.

The most important thing about sushi is who prepares it, and it shows. At Spago, sushi chefs Harumi Nomura and Gábor Vellai work with these ingredients with admirable professionalism and humility, making finding the perfect drinks to accompany it a real challenge.