Diversidad, la nueva etiqueta para el vino chileno

The reality, cruel to some, fantastic to others, is that for years Chilean wines have been labeled as good, beautiful, and cheap (the 3 B's). Fantastic for supermarket wine consumers and for those who sell in volume at low prices. A nightmare, however, for those who have wanted to take a step further and focus on higher-end wines. As high as those consumers enamored with the big names, say from France, Italy, Spain, Germany… wines designed to age for decades or to be showcased in Michelin-starred restaurants.

The idea of ​​sending a different message, clarifying that not all Chilean wines are merely good, attractive, and inexpensive, but much more, was simple; though not so simple to implement. It consisted of applying everything learned over the last 20 years, thanks precisely to the boost in Chilean wine exports with the "3 Bs" (good, beautiful, and cheap) initiative, to begin distinguishing between good and very good, and very good and exceptional. This meant moving away from the wine-growing paradise that Chile represented for supermarket wines. A paradise, because it typically has plenty of sunshine in the summer and little rain, as well as abundant water flowing from the eternal snows of the Andes for unrestricted irrigation. This territory, some 500 km wide, is called the Great Central Valley, located between the Aconcagua Valley DO to the north and the Maule DO to the south; and the origin of at least 82% of Chilean wine since the end of the last century.

The message was clear, though not who said it, at one of the seminars Wines of Chile (a group that brings together the biggest players in the industry) held before Covid-19: “The future of your country's wines is to separate, separate, separate…” The challenge posed to the audience was to remove the rotten apples from the same basket, while simultaneously placing the apples that could shine on their own in separate baskets. This is something that French winemakers do very well, working with their smaller Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée (AOCs), as opposed to the larger, regional ones. Thus, in their quality pyramid, the best wines, generally with the highest prices, come from the smallest and most prestigious terroirs. Further down, where they have fallen due to stricter limits or quality requirements, are the cheaper wines, though not necessarily good ones. Indeed, Chile has earned its reputation for the 3 Bs (good, beautiful, and cheap) and continues to maintain it.

To separate, separate, separate within the Great Central Valley, the most demanding sought to move towards the extremes, in the direction of its natural borders: the Coast to the west and the Andes to the east.

These investments would separate wines produced under the influence of the cool Pacific coast, usually made in the coastal mountain range, from the larger market. These climatic conditions, resulting from the Humboldt Current's frost, favor slow ripening and a more pronounced acidity in the grapes.

Also included are those wines grown in the much younger Andes Mountains, from vineyards located at higher altitudes relative to sea level. These vineyards experience a greater temperature variation between day and night, which contributes to more vibrant colors and natural acidity in the grapes and their wines. This, combined with poorer soils resulting in lower yields and, consequently, a greater concentration of flavors and aromas, along with more even and optimal grape ripening, contributes to this distinctive character. Within the Maipo Valley, wines already distinguished by these qualities had begun to identify themselves as "Alto Maipo" wines by the end of the last century.

The challenge, which should be reflected in the wines and labels, was to create a sense of separation within the vast Central Valley, using the two mountain ranges at its ends as a reference point. To achieve this, data from various weather stations installed for agricultural purposes throughout Chile was used, and the producers themselves were asked where they believed these stations were located.

The data from both sources coincided. Thus, vineyards with lower temperatures near the cool Pacific coast were assigned the Additional Indication Costa, while vineyards with cooler nighttime climates, due to their location at the foot of the Andes, were identified as Andes (although we still see “Maipo Alto” ​​on labels). The remaining vineyards, situated between these two Additional Indications, with less temperature variation between day and night and generally more fertile soils (more favorable conditions for wines with the 3Bs), would be Entre Cordilleras; although the original plan, created precisely to differentiate them, did not include them.

The problem that then arose was where to place producers with different climate and soil data, located within the same DO, since the smaller ones are delimited geo-politically, by communes or districts, instead of by soil types and climate differences, as is usually the case in the most prestigious DOs in Europe.

Unable to divide the municipalities with these differences, the decision was made to bring the minority producers into the majority. Thus, some producers who had made efforts to break free from the common system and move up into the Andes Mountains were once again left behind. However, over time, new Designations of Origin (DOs) were created to rectify these errors. For example, vineyards located between 800 and 900 meters above sea level in the Andes Mountains, previously under the Rancagua DO and bearing the name Entre Cordilleras, were relocated to the Machalí DO with the name Andes.

Also, in order to showcase the gems of the Entre Cordilleras region, a Denomination of Origin (DO) was created, delimited by the town of Apalta, located in the heart of the Central Valley but at the foot of a branch of the Andes Mountains. Apalta had been establishing itself as a region of exceptional wines, even reaching the number one spot in the renowned annual world ranking of the North American magazine Wine Spectator, with the Clos Apalta 2005 blend from Viña Casa Lapostolle.

Besides Apalta, there are other exceptional vineyards within Entre Cordilleras, thanks to the unique soil and climate characteristics that their producers strive to achieve; and to which we should pay close attention. Complex? Yes, because even if we try, it's difficult to generalize when talking about wines and their terroirs, especially in Chile's unique geography.

If we go into practice (which is what every wine buyer is looking for) based on this new information that we are already starting to find on the labels of Chilean wines, and which is known as Additional Indications, we should first identify the DO and then give it a surname: Coast, Andes or Between Mountain Ranges.

Don't expect to find these three surnames on the labels of the most affordable wines, because they're rarely there. It would be unrealistic, though they do appear. In this price range, look primarily for the names of medium and large wineries with a certain prestige. Their "3B" (good, beautiful, and cheap) wines have steadily improved over the years, despite some unpleasant memories from past decades due to excessive oak and insufficient fruit. This improvement is thanks to technological advancements in wineries and vineyards, including the use of state-of-the-art harvesting machinery.

If you are looking for those exceptional wines, the product of separating, separating, separating, or of new areas ideal for each variety, the suggestion is to dare to go up in price above $20.

In this segment, within the Greater Central Valley (which is not the same, mind you, as the Central Valley DO), the key is to choose wines made from grape varieties that thrive in cool climates (such as Pinot Noir and Syrah for reds, and Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer for whites) with the Costa DO designation. The 100% coastal DOs of Casablanca and San Antonio (with the more famous Leyda DO and the newer Lo Abarca), located between the Pacific Ocean and the Maipo Valley, are already unsurpassed for their cool-climate white and red wines.

Interestingly, the large Maipo Valley DO itself does not have any coastal DOs. Neither does the Cachapoa Valley, because, like Bolivia, it is landlocked.

Further north, within the Aconcagua Valley DO, there are still no coastal areas that stand out on their own, so their wines (already boasting very high scores) are identified as Aconcagua Costa. The work of Viña Errázuriz, which has explored the entire valley, deserves special mention. Viña Casa Silva has also done similar work throughout the Colchagua Valley, from the Los Lingües DO at the foot of the Andes to the more renowned Paredores DO on the coast.

For serious reds, with greater fruit concentration, body, and structure, the trick is to choose those with the Andes (a Alto) designation, unless they are also made from red grape varieties that thrive in cooler climates. The most renowned examples in the Maipo Valley are the Pirque, Puente Alto, and Buin DOs, designations we rarely see on labels because Maipo Andes has become much more prominent. The same is true for the Andean DOs of the Cachapoal Valley, such as Machallí, Requinoa, and Rengo; or the Colchagua Andes DOs of San Fernando, Chimbarongo, and Los Lingües.

The Andean DOs of the Curicó Valley, such as Molina or Romeral, need more impetus, although the former is already beginning to position itself as extraordinary for Sauvignon blanc.

Meanwhile, in the greater Maule region, the overlooked Andean DO Colbún is already making its mark with fantastic reds and some Sauvignon Blanc, while the coastal DO Empedrado is doing so with cool-climate reds, such as pinot noir, especially from Viña Miguel Torres, and very fresh carignan, from the small but powerful Garage Wine & Co.

Daring to take a step further as consumers, with renowned vineyards or the new spectrum of small winemakers, will give you the assurance that in those vineyards and wineries they did the work of separating, separating, separating to enchant us with their princesses.

And if you've wondered what's happening in Chile today beyond the Great Central Valley, a country stretching over 4,000 kilometers, with diverse landscapes and climates from north to south and more than 90 grape varieties still being explored, you're not wrong. "Diversity," championed by those seeking to move forward and focus on higher levels, is the new hallmark of Chilean wine.

Wines you probably never thought you could find

in the Great Central Valley of Chile

Coastal wines

Terranoble Disidente Syrah-Tempranillo 2020, DO Valle de Casablanca (Costa). They say the Tempranillo grape gets its name from its early ripening and its ability to thrive in cool climates. Syrah, on the other hand, has the versatility to produce excellent wines in almost any climate, if properly cultivated. With these principles in mind, combining these two grape varieties in the coolest part of Casablanca, on very poor, granite-rich soil, results in a wine that is seductive in its aromas, body, and tannins. And of course, with a very rich acidity. Enjoy it now or cellar it for several more years. A must-try (16,900 pesos, $21). From the same vineyard (Las Dichas) and with different soil, their Gran Reserva Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc are also unmissable.

Estampa Inspiración Montepulciano 2020, DO Paredones (Colchagua Coast). There are fewer than six hectares of this late-ripening Italian red grape variety in Chile, and already three wines of it are on the market. This one (19,900 pesos, $25) is the only one from the cool coastal region of Colchagua and is the work of a woman, Johana Pereira. Tasting it is like savoring a basket of blackberries and blueberries, ripe and incredibly juicy. Its finish, with plenty of energy and firm tannins, promises to continue improving in the bottle over the years. Estampa is also experimenting with other Italian grape varieties in the area with very good results, and in Paredones, it also produces excellent Riesling and Gewürztraminer in its Inspiración line, as well as Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah Rosé (10,900 pesos, $13), and Pinot Noir (14,900 pesos, $19) in the Del Viento line.

Gems between both mountain ranges

De Martino Carmenère Alto de Piedras Single Vineyard 2020, Maipo Valley (DO Isla de Maipo, in Entre Cordilleras). This winery was the first to introduce the Carmenère grape variety to Chilean wines, and since then (1996 vintage) has been doing excellent work selecting the best lots; in this case, on poor alluvial soils, ancient riverbeds. They have also searched throughout Chile for the best varieties for each location; this is how their 3B line, called 347, was born. This Carmenère delights with its silky mouthfeel, accompanied by strength and freshness; also, the perfect note of red bell pepper and the influence of French oak barrels and foudres for 14 months (19,900 pesos, $25). An outstanding wine, from "paradise."

Viu Manent Malbec Single Vineyard San Carlos 2018, Colchagua (Between the Andes). When talking about Malbec in Chile, Viu Manent must be mentioned, the winery that produces the most diverse wines with this red grape variety. Their two top-of-the-line wines come from their best vineyards, the oldest (one hundred years old and more), planted in Cunaco, nestled between the two mountain ranges. These vineyards are irrigated without water, thanks to their deep roots in fertile soils, resulting in perfectly balanced vines. The grapes from the best sector (sector 4) go into their flagship wine, Viu 1 (79,900 pesos, $100 USD). For the Single San Carlos, which takes its name from the vineyard, the grapes come from sectors 5 and 6. At its price (17,900 pesos, $22 USD), with all its power and elegance, it offers the best value for money from the winery. From Colchagua Costa, the same winery has just presented the delicate Chardonnay Tiny Trails, which is well worth trying (12,990 pesos, $16).

Andean wines

Pérez Cruz Garnacha 2020, Maipo Andes. This winery at the foot of the Andes Mountains, DO, understood that the area is ideal for red grape varieties and has focused entirely on them. The largest area of ​​its vineyards is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, and its wines exemplify the freshest character of Maipo Andes, in every price category, from its Gran Reserva (9,900 pesos, $12) to its top-of-the-line Pircas (34,900 pesos, $43). The winery has experimented with other grape varieties that thrive in more sunshine and with lighter-style wines, perfect for enjoying in summer. This is how its delicious Garnacha, a strawberry and raspberry juice, was born, best enjoyed between 13 and 15°C (12,900 pesos, $16).

Ribera del Lago Laberinto Cenizas Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Maule Valley. Although not specified on the label, this white wine, with its enviable tension on the palate, comes from the highest vineyards in the Maule Valley, flanked to the east by the Andes Mountains and to the west by Lake Colbún. One of the most beautiful hillside vineyards in Chile, it was born from the obsession of its owner and winemaker, Rafael Tirado, to explore the limits of traditional grape varieties and then to refine, refine, refine. His Sauvignon Blanc Cenizas is the result of this work. Today, it is one of the best in Chile, with a more mineral and citrusy character than the herbal notes typical of coastal Sauvignons (at 14,900 pesos, it's another bargain).