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21 October 2026Latest Articles
THE IMPERIAL EPICUREAN GAZETTE
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The Cellar
By Inés Alcubierre, the Cellar desk3d agoNorway4 min read
The ticket berry, king of the forest, demands elegant wines with acidity.

The ticket berry, king of the forest, demands elegant wines with acidity.

Their thick, firm caps emerge from the ground, and young specimens can be eaten raw, in salads, or on a carpaccio.

Young porcini mushrooms are so delicate that they can be served raw in salads or on their own with a good garlic vinaigrette, and even on top of carpaccio instead of Parmesan. When they grow larger, they are best fried.

A typical dish of humble cuisine is porcini mushroom fillets: thick slices coated in breadcrumbs and fried in butter or oil, or grilled with a vinaigrette of oil, lemon, and garlic. If the stems are in good condition, they can be used as a filling for ravioli, and the resulting dish deserves a good wine pairing.

The flavor of porcini mushrooms, with hints of nuts, is reminiscent of elegant Chardonnay wines, preferably from their place of origin, Burgundy. There's also a certain sweetness, present in several white wines from the region. At the same time, acidity is needed to balance the intense mushroom flavor and the notes of butter and cheese.

After trying several options, the choice fell on Meursault, a subregion and appellation of origin in Burgundy that produces wines rich in nuances without sacrificing elegance. The Matrot Meursault is perfect for drinking now, with ripe aromas of butter, oak, and minerals. On the palate, it has body and a pleasant freshness that spreads across the entire mouth. It's an elegant wine, not for everyday drinking, ideal for a special occasion or to accompany porcini ravioli.

There are simpler alternatives. The Hugel Estate Riesling is full-bodied and fresh, with a relatively intense fruity flavor, and pairs well with most mushroom dishes. The Hugel Classic Pinot Gris is an even better choice: smoother and rounder, with notes of ripe fruit and a touch of spice. These are excellent wines for most people.

Porcini mushroom ravioli also pairs well with red wine. Matrot Blagny La Pièce sous le Bois is delicate and smooth, yet robust, making it a perfect match.

For those seeking wines with character, the Ruberpan Valpolicella Classico Superiore is reminiscent of a Pinot Noir, while the Allegrini Palazzo della Torre is made using the ripasso method. This involves pouring the already fermented Valpolicella over the active sediment in the barrels where the Amarone has fermented, triggering a second alcoholic fermentation that enhances the wine's intensity. Its aroma offers notes of pickled cherries and barrel spices, and its flavor is juicy, round, and sweet.

The porcini (Boletus edulis) belongs to the bolete family. Its cap is light brown in young specimens and darkens slightly in adults. The gills are white and acquire a greenish-yellow hue with age, and the stem has a slight reticulated pattern. Young specimens are used whole, even raw if thoroughly cleaned; in larger ones, only the cap is used, because the layer of tubes can be unappealing and the stem is rough. It grows in coniferous and deciduous forests throughout the country and is a good edible mushroom, rated three stars.

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