Why Riesling and Negroni are so highly regarded by professionals
Among sommeliers, buyers, winemakers, journalists, and marketing experts, an unusually high proportion mention Riesling as one of their reference grapes.
Those who aren't wine enthusiasts rarely consider trying a glass of Riesling unless someone insists. Furthermore, the grape doesn't seem to be very readily available in stores, at least in the UK. This contrast between professional taste and that of the average drinker has an explanation.
The proposed theory revolves around two factors. On the one hand, the terroir of the grape, a significant barrier to entry. On the other, the damage its reputation has suffered over time. Its fruity, fresh profile with citrus notes is difficult to appreciate at first, and the range of sweetness levels, depending on the style, appeals more to the consumer seeking complex and challenging wines than to someone who simply wants a bottle of white wine for a Thursday night for under £10, which is perfectly fine.
Those of a certain age still shudder to recall the terribly sweet and cheap German white wines that used to wash up on the shores of the United Kingdom. Something similar happens with the Negroni: it's a much-loved drink, but also a complex blend of equal parts Campari, gin, and vermouth. When well-made, it offers a great complexity of flavors, although it can be too bitter for those seeking a lighter drink.
Riesling and Negroni share a common characteristic: they are both excellent palate cleansers. Riesling, with its inherently high acidity, and Negroni, with its characteristic bitterness. Neither relies on oak or artificial flavorings to mask harshness. Both depend on high-quality ingredients to tell their stories. A Negroni made with low-quality, oxidized vermouth and basic, high-proof gin fails to do so, and often only the connoisseur has the time to appreciate them.
